Well everyone, it’s that time of the year again. Christmas (and other winter holiday) shopping. And, like last year, we’re back to help. Not necessarily by just pushing the products we want you to buy (D3s, 7D, *cough cough*), but by giving you useful, more sweeping tips to make you a more savvy shopper, able to sift through the seas of numbers, specs, and options available.
OK, ok, we’ll probably plug a specific product or two as we go along. We sell camera equipment, it’s what we do, you know?
But, let’s start with a simple one: image stabilization.
Image stabilization is known by many names (basically a different one for each manufacturer), but is ultimately down to the same idea. Some of the more common names for this technology include:
- Image Stabilization (IS)
- Vibration Compensation (VC)
- Vibration Reduction (VR)
- SuperSteady Shot
- And many more
So, what does it do? Well, when you hold a camera, it’s subject to slight trembles and other shakes from your hands. These are natural, and how bad they are depends on your age, physical condition, grip, stance, camera, and more. But, what is means without fail is that at longer exposures, the natural movements from your hands will move the camera a little, and make pictures look less sharp.
There are three ways image stabilization works: electronic, optical, and in-body. Of those, you should only ever choose optical or in-body. Those two help reduce shake using complicated gyroscopes that shift elements to counter for your hand shake. Electronic stabilization, however, works by simply pushing your ISO up, which introduces grain and noise and color shifts, and in general trades one problem for a different one.
Also, because it just counters your movement, image stabilization doesn’t change exposure. In low light, you will still need longer exposures which means moving subjects will still have motion blur. But, if you’re shooting largely stationary subjects, or family portraits around the Christmas tree, image stabilization will help keep your shots crisper. Recommending a camera or lens with image stabilization over one without is easy, we’ll recommend it every time.
During the ’70s, a producer/director friend of mine used to roam the LA punk scene with an amazing little 35mm camera, the Minox 35 GL. It was the smallest 35mm camera ever produced. Its sharp Minotar lens shot beautiful pictures and thanks to the high ISO films that were being perfected in those days, one could shoot in very low light. There has never been any digital equivalent in size and low light capabilities until now, with Canon’s introduction of the S90. With the G11 and S90 cameras, Canon has finally reversed the maddening pixel race. Pixel density on the G11 has been reduced from its predecessor’s 34MP/cm² down to 23MP/cm² and low light performance has greatly improved. The S90 uses the same sensor and its f-2 maximum aperture helps to make this the best p&s for available light shooting.
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